Epoxy floor coating is a flooring surface composed of multiple layers of epoxy applied to the floor to a depth of less than two millimeters. Epoxy comprises of resins Epoxy Floors and hardeners. The resin and hardener are mixed together to chemically react. This forms a rigid plastic-type material that is strong, resistant to wreckage, and which bonds extremely well to its substrate.
Epoxy floors are incredibly strong and can be used in the most demanding industrial environments as well as provide a beautiful addition to a regular trafficked floor. High grade epoxy resin is used to upgrade surfaces, obtain colored effects, protect floors against corrosion, and achieve a water tight effect. All of these qualities provide longer durability of surfaces.
Applying your own epoxy flooring to a commercial building or a room in your house can be easier than expected. First, you must determine if the floor has a coating on it. Epoxy coatings will react with previously installed coatings. Polyurethane and latex floor paints will not possess a new epoxy floor. Therefore, you will need to rob a polyurethane or latex floor before applying epoxy.
Oil or grease stain residue must be removed before beginning any epoxy application. An industrial degreaser or solvent cleaner will get rid of those stains. You need to be aware in order to prevent asphyxiation or combustion during this step. Rubber residue will need to be sanded or grounded off.
To find previous coating, take a small cup of muriatic acid mixed four parts water to at least one part acid. Drip small amounts of the solution onto various areas of the floor. Areas that are not different in color, texture, or shininess need to be taken care of. The solution will fizz yellow if there is no coating present.
Presoak the floor with a garden hose to ensure the entire floor is rainy. Mix one gallon of the mixed water and acid solution. The acid should be muriatic or a masonry cleaner. Consistently serve the gallon to cover 75 to 100 pillow feet. Try to keep the work contained to squares.
A stiff bristled shop broom will be the easiest method to apply in a scrubbing motion. A foamy white reaction will occur. Rinse the floor well with water. Broom out excessive water. Allow the floor to fully dry. Moisture trapped beneath the epoxy coating will cause the bond to weaken or fail between the coating and concrete surface.
Blow drying should take place between seven to ten days. Test dryness by placing a flat, moisture proof object, such as a convertible top tile, in the grass overnight. Remove to look for proof condensed water or a darkened appearance of the concrete surface.
Choose an epoxy to coat the floor. It must contain an epoxy resin, a clear or amber viscous liquid. You will also desire a catalyst, which is a component of a multi-part epoxy system that causes the resin to shore up. Buy epoxy in a two part package to make sure the resin and hardener are compatible. Read mixing directions carefully to insure proper proportions are mixed.
A pigment is a good idea to get rid of the semi-transparent material that is epoxy. Pre-pigmented packages are the best bet, but separate pigments can be purchased as well. Texturing materials such as sandblasting and PVC plastic granules give different textures and degrees of footing.
Lastly, install the coatings per the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a paint roller with an proxy handle to apply the material to the floor. Begin at a back corner so you can work your way toward an exit as you roll. Overlap each roller path by one half its width. Keep plenty of material in the roller and recoat the roller if it begins tacking.
Work the roller as quickly as possible as epoxies must be used in one hour or less. Dispose of the roller when finished and let the epoxy to cure completely. Observe recoat times carefully. Recoating after waiting too long is really as bad as not waiting long enough.